London Fashion Week: The British Muslim designer trying to be the future

Fashion designer Kazna Asker is a British Muslim with Yemeni roots raised in Sheffield.

But when it came to finding inspiration for her looks blending sportswear with Islamic staples, she didn't have to look so far.

"My main fashion inspiration is my family," she says.

"I'd see my grandma in a traditional hijab and abaya and my cousin sat next to her in a roadman tracksuit," she says.

The 26-year-old made her debut at London Fashion Week (LFW), showcasing her clothes in a catwalk show seen by journalists, family and fashionistas.

Kazna wanted to bring a flavour of her hometown to the packed-out room, and mannequins draped in her designs stood at the entrance.

"All the clothes on the mannequins are what I would see in my community," she says.

"The combination of traditional, cultural dress with streetwear."

Traditional Yemeni tea and biscuits were served to the audience, and a self-directed documentary about Kezna's community filled the space.

Kezna says showing her work at such a prestigious event was a big moment, shining a spotlight on her work and her heritage.

"I know Fashion Week comes with a lot of clout, so I'm glad it's getting people's attention," she says.

A show in London, and the chance to show her film, also gave Kazna a chance voices from Sheffield that can often "go unheard".

Kazna's talking about "the individuals and the people who fight for the city, the teachers, the councillors, the community activists".

The documentary shows her going to her local council and challenging it on the lack of teachers from ethnic minority backgrounds.

And Kazna's also got her eye on diversity in the fashion industry - something she says it needs to improve on.

A 2022 British Fashion Council report found the industry's leadership remains dominated by men and white leaders, and "the fashion industry is not adequately prioritising diversity and inclusion".

The report also pointed to concerns that the lack of diversity at lower levels "speaks to the lack of a diverse talent pipeline in the industry".

Another barrier is money. Though Kazna made an impact at LFW this year, she feels it's difficult to break into fashion without connections or a lot of financial backing.

She was supported through a British Fashion Council fund designed to help emerging British designers.

"I think it is hard for fashion students to survive," she says.

"When I came to London for my postgrad, the costs were very high, but it was worth it.

"I got a lot of support in my designs and my tutors really believed in my message."

Kazna is also breaking into the world of modest streetwear - a growing area of fashion which is slowly drawing interest from companies such as Nike.

But many in the Muslim community feel like there's still a long way to go, she says, with limited options available on the High Street.

And she's keen to keep making a difference with her designs.

"The fight in me comes from my Yemeni heritage," she says.

"My parents fought for everything they have now. That rebellious side of me comes out in my fashion."

For those wanting to break through despite facing barriers, Kazna has some advice.

"Don't be intimidated by a big city, always go back to your people and represent them," she says.

"Just rep your corner, people identify with that."

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